Uncertainty Was The Best Part

In addition to the people I met, and the unlimited amount of food I could eat when I was in town, the thing I liked best about hiking the Appalachian Trail from Georgia to Maine was the uncertainty of it all. You just never knew how a day was going to turn out, what good surprises were in store for you. And, mostly, they were good.

Here’s what I’m talking about:

[You can read “Uncertainty Was The Best Part,” or you can watch a video, or, of course, you can read and watch it.  Suit yourself.]

On March 6, 2015, I was hiking in the Smoky Mountains of North Carolina and for most of the day I struggled up and down hills. The trail was badly eroded and I was walking in what amounted to an icy, slushy ditch.  That afternoon it had just begun to snow again when I spotted a hand-written note to taped to a post, 1.7 miles south of Newfound Gap and US 441.

Griswold
Griswold

Griswold, Tadpole, and the Hiking Vikings, who were ahead of me, had changed their minds about hiking on to Icewater Spring Shelter (how appropriately it was named), where we had all planned to meet that night. They had decided to get a shuttle to Gatlinburg, get warm, get showers, put on dry clothes, get something good to eat – and dodge a zero degree temperature night on the trail.

Did I want to join them? If so, call this number.

Tadpole
Tadpole

Did I want to join them? Does a bear live in the woods?  Oh, yes!

I called and left a message saying I would be at Newfound Gap by 3 p.m. They were somewhere ahead of me and I was afraid I might miss them so I gave myself no time to spare — and then I hustled. 

When I arrived at Newfound Gap, a few minutes past 3, they were nowhere to be seen. I was not surprised, or perturbed, to discover that my friends were not sitting on their hands in a blizzard waiting for me. Thru-hikers do not wait around for each other even when the sun is shining. You just can’t do that when you’re trying to hike to Maine.

* * *

The Hiking Vikings
The Hiking Vikings

I stood there a minute, figuring out what to do. The wind was howling, blowing snow this way and that, and I could feel the temperature dropping.

Should I wait for Stretch, an Israeli who was the sixth person in our group? He might not even be coming. He might have stopped at the last shelter. [In fact, that’s what he had done.] No, I wouldn’t wait. Should I hike another three miles to Ice Water Spring Shelter? Or should I hitch a ride into Gatlinburg?

Gatlinburg — hot food, dry clothes, and a warm bed — won. Easily.

Lucky - that's me.
Lucky – that’s me.

I started walking down U.S. 441 toward Gatlinburg, planning on hitching a ride, but it didn’t take long to realize that that was not going to happen. Not a single vehicle appeared from either direction. Because of the blizzard, the highway had been closed.

Well, in for a dime, in for a dollar, I thought. I’ll walk to Gatlinburg. I didn’t know know how far it was, but it couldn’t be that far, could it? It was a trail town, wasn’t it? I had a map, I could have checked. But what difference would it have made? One way or another I was going to Gatlinburg.

* * *

Officer Heath
Officer Heath Soahn

I had been walking through the storm for almost an hour when the law arrived in the person of Heath Soahn, a U.S. Park Service officer. He slowed his cruiser, stopped beside me, and rolled down the passenger window. Warm air rushed out.

“Where are the other four?” he asked.

I told him I didn’t know. They had been ahead of me.

Get in,” he told me.

Gladly.

One minute I had been walking down the highway in a blizzard and the next I was sitting beside Soahn. Warm. Safe. Warm. The officer drove right back up the mountain, turned into the parking lot at the Newfound Gap, and blew his horn. And, just like that, my four friends appeared. They had taken refuge in a heated restroom — heated to keep the pipes from freezing.

Soahn had gone looking for them not because they had called for help, but because they had called for a shuttle. The shuttle folks had call the U.S. Park Service to find out if the highway was still open, and when they were told it wasn’t, they told the park service about the four hikers.

Soahn drove us to a motel in Gatlinburg where my friends had made a reservation. The five of us shared a two-room suite that cost us 12 bucks each. We showered, put on dry clothes, and went out to eat together – ribs, hot rolls, and lots of warm fellowship and smiles at our good fortune.  

* * *

Oh, how far would I have had to walk?

On the way to town I asked Officer Soahn how many miles was it to Gatlinburg.

Seventeen, he told me.

NOTE: While we’re on the subject I’m going to share the good news: next month Iceman and I are going to hike the John Muir Trial, the most beautiful trail in America.

On March 2 I blogged about the JMT, a post I called “The Hike Of A Lifetime Lottery.”

No, we didn’t win so as of now we don’t have permits without which you can’t hike the JMT.  But we have a plan. We’re just going to show up, stand in line, and try to get what they call a “walk-up” permit.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Coming Monday: Do This And They Will Make You King

Call Me “Lucky”

Lucky
Lucky

NOTE: Yesterday was the three-year anniversary of the first day of my thru-hike of the Appalachian Trial. How time flies.

Almost every thru-hiker I met on Appalachian Trial in 2015 had a trail name, as did most section hikers. A few waited to get a name more or less assigned to them, growing out of some incident on the trail. But that strategy was fraught with peril — you could fall in the mud and get a name like  Dirty Bottom. So most hikers picked their own name.

When I decided to hike from Georgia to Maine several friends told me how “fortunate” I was to have the health to at least try –I had a birthday on the trail and was 73 years old when I finished — and a wife who had said, “Yes.”

“Fortunate” didn’t resonate with me, but “Lucky” did, so I made that my trail name.

I don’t know the real names of most of the hikers I met.  Some I know now because we’ve gotten together for reunions of sorts, or I’ve kept in touch by email. But we still call each other by our trail names.

Here are some of the people I met on the A.T., and the origin of their name.

GRRRR

GRRRR
GRRRR

GRRRR got his name from his youngest daughter, who is called “Goose.” When GRRRR came home from Viet Nam he brought with him a painting of a tiger. He and his wife would asked Goose, who was just learning to talk, what a tiger says and she would answer GRRRR. And then she began calling her daddy GRRRR.  I met him on the A.T. but since then we’ve gone kayaking together, more than 100 miles down the Roanoke River this past spring.  I posted this story about our river trip.

 Temper

Snacks and Temper
Snacks, L, and Temper

She was not a big woman, I’d bet she didn’t weigh much more than 100 pounds. But when I first met her I figured it was best to avoid any disagreement. You just know, with a name like Temper she must have a short fuse. But, turned out, her name had nothing to do with anger management or lack thereof and everything to do with an unusual job — she had worked in a chocolate factory where she “tempered” chocolate. After I finished I got to play trail angel at Snowbird, in the mountains of North Carolina, for Temper and her boyfriend, Snacks, after she finished the northern half of the A.T. and began hiking south to Georgia.

Crockman

Crockman's crocks
Crockman’s crocks

Back in the real world, Crockman was a carpenter, so his name had nothing to do with his occupation. It came from his footwear.  He didn’t wear boots, he wore crocks, the only hiker I met who did that.

O311

This man got out of the Marines in the summer before his thru-hike. His MOS –Military Occupational Specialty — was 0311 — Infantry.

Iceman

Iceman
Iceman

He was a section hiker and trail angel par excellence. He brought ice to a little girl who had broken her arm on the trail. She named him. And he helped me multiple times.

I wrote about my last encounter with Iceman here. It was this past summer, on the A.T. in Pennsylvania.

Since 2015 Iceman has finished the entire A.T., section by section.

Iceman, Viking, and Nine!, a man I hiked a Grand Canyon back country trail  with last October, and I are trying to get permits to hike the John Muir Trail, in California, this summer.

Eddy

Eddy
Eddy

She is an expert kayacker – she runs Class 5 rapids. And an eddy, of course, is a river word, “a circular movement of water, counter to a main current, causing a small whirlpool.”

Last summer Eddy rafted down the Colorado River with a bunch of other folks.  Early in the trip someone accidentally hit her in the mouth with his paddle and knocked out four of her front teeth.  She stuck them back in and continued the trip.

California

California
California

California was an EMT who was moving to the East Coast, to a new job. He had some time off in between and decided to hike a few hundred miles of the A.T.

We hiked together for a week or 10 days and any time I whined about anything he would tell me, “It’s all good, Lucky.”

He was from — how did you guess? — California.

Tadpole

He planned to join the Navy after his hike with a goal of becoming a Seal, a modern day frogman. And, as you know, a tadpole is baby frog.

Cashmere

She was a 50-some year old college professor who taught organic chemistry. 

And her trail name?  She said she sweated a lot. Get it? Sweater? Cashmere?

This woman could really hike.  She finished the A.T. in less than four months –the average hiker finishes in just under six– and, last I heard, was hiking the 2,650-mile Pacific Crest Trail.

How long did I take? I’m glad you asked: four months and some few odd days. OK, OK, four months and 29 days.

J

J
J

J, just the letter “J,” a retired firemen from Georgia, picked that name in memory of his brother, John, who died in infancy.

J and I hiked a little over 100 miles together, over mountains in North Carolina and Tennessee.  The closer we got to Damascus, Virginia —town food, hot shower, clean clothes — the more we wanted get there. So one cold, snowy night we agreed to skip breakfast and get an extra early start, leave before sunup and hike by headlamp.  J was an early riser, he like to drink coffee before the day began.  That morning was no exception; he had his coffee and then called out in the dark, “Lucky?”

“It is time?” I asked, and he said yes.

 I rolled out, dressed, and packed up as quickly as I could. It was still snowing. 

As we were leaving, J asked me to check the time.  I did.  It was 4:20 a.m., almost two hours earlier than the start time we had agreed on.   J insisted that he had no idea, and he sounded so sincere. I told him, of course, to sell that somewhere else.

[J did not finish in 2015 but in 2017 he started over, and hiked from Georgia to Maine.]

Verminator

Mice had eaten holes in his backpack and he was determined to trap and kill as many of them as he could.

The Hiking Vikings

The Hiking Vikings
The Hiking Vikings

This is easy.  Take one look at their head gear, knitted for them by a sister-in-law, Sara.   I guess I hiked 1,000 miles or more, off and off, with The Hiking Vikings.  They were fun to hike with in part because they were always in such a good mood, no matter what the weather was like, or the trail.  My wife, Donna, and I have been on holiday with them since the thru-hike and the Viking and I did a 100-miler on the A.T. in Pennsylvania this past summer.   I think The Hiking Vikings, AKA “The Famous Hiking Vikings,” are going to be hikers for life.  They’ve named their firstborn son Asher Thomas — A.T.

Lucky and The Hiking Vikings
Lucky and The Hiking Vikings

All in due time I’m going to post several stories about those two.

Viking and I plan to do another 100 miler in May, on the A.T. in Virginia.

Slowman

How slow was Slowman? Pretty slow. I passed right many

Slowman
Slowman

thru-hikers who were laying around in town, taking a day off. Or in shelters, sleeping in.  But I only passed three on the trail: One was legally blind.  One was injured.  And Slowman.

WYSIWYG, pronounced Whiz-e-wig

You might never have guessed this one. It’s an acronym for “What You See Is What You Get.”

 Between

Between and his mother, Mother Nature
Between and his mother, Mother Nature, at the end of the hike.

He was 17, going on 18, between high school and college.  Between hiked with his Mom who was called Mother Nature.  The three of us were together at the end, on Mt. Katahdin in Maine. Between and his mother are German. I met three other foreigners thru-hiking the trail including Canada’s most honored Olympian, who called herself Red Feather.  

Not Yet

It was his first day on the trail, and he wasn’t going anywhere special, certainly not starting a thru-hike. He was just trying out his equipment.

Someone asked, “Do you have a trail name?”

And he replied, “Not Yet.”

NOTE: GRRRR told me told me about a hiker who tried go by his initials, “DJ,” but word had spread and every time he arrived at a shelter someone would ask, “Are you the one they call ‘Ice Pee?'”
Seems that DJ hadn’t wanted to get up one cold night so he peed in his Jetboil — his cooking pot.

“The temperature dropped to 15 degrees and all water froze,”” GRRRR said.  “Next morning he had to cook his pee to empty the pot. Hence the name, ‘ Ice Pee.’ “

 

Scout
Scout

Other hikers I met on my thru-hike: Apollo, Atticus, Attrition, Badger, Bolt, Bridges, Blissful, Blister, Bruin, Claus, Cork and Daddy Smurf.

Tweet
Tweet

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also, Deadline, Desperado, Dude, Elf, Elmer, Felix, Gator, Goat, Good Knight, Goodpeople, Griswold, Honey Bunn, Hulk, Ironman, Ivy, J-Squared, Jax, and Jingles.

Griswold
Griswold

Krumzs, Little Debbie, Lunchbox, Mango, Mashed Potatoes, Medicine Man, Nemo, Old Man, Ox, Pa Bert, Pac-Man, and Pacidor.

Rambler, Rebel Yell, Rising Sun, Sasquatch, Scout, Selfie, Sheepshead, Smiles, Smokes, SNAFU, Snowshoe, Storm, Stretch, Styles, Sycamore, Thunder, Tweet, Twisted, Wallace, Wayfarer and Yoyo.

Coming Monday: What Is The Point?