Big Mouth

Big Mouth started touting the Toe River while we were on another white water trip, on the Chattooga down in South Carolina. When we were done with Chattooga, he said, he’d take us on a real white water river.

I had never been on the Toe, which, like Chattooga, starts in the mountains of North Carolina, didn’t know anything about it. But I doubted it had better rapids than the Chattooga –“the ultimate and ideal for the undecked canoe” — and, even if it did, he ought not be talking about the Toe, not with a bunch of guys getting ready to go down the Chattooga.  That’s bad form.

When we got back to Charlotte a buddy and I decided we’d make him put up or shut up — we’d run the Toe with him. Wouldn’t be same as Chattooga, of course, where we were in canoes. On the Toe the three of us would be riding single in two-man rafts, which are a lot more stable, a lot harder to turn over.

Hydraulic illustration
Hydraulic illustration

On the way to the mountains Big Mouth kept talking about the Toe, and how we better be careful. He said some rapids had what they call hydraulics,* an area below the rapid where the flow of the water reverses. He said a hydraulic could grab your raft and pull it — and you — backwards, under the falls.

Finally we were in the water, and I was alone in my raft. The Toe, in a raft, wasn’t as challenging as Chattooga, but it was fun. Beautiful, too.

Then I went over a three or four-foot fall and my raft stopped.  Water rushed by, but my raft didn’t move. Something had me. In a one second I went from having fun to fighting for my life.  Everything Big Mouth had said about hydraulics that morning came rushing back and I paddled as if my life depended on it.

My friends could see what was happening, could see I was caught, but they couldn’t help me. In fast water you can’t paddle a raft upriver, or straight across a river — the current won’t allow it.

There’s only so long you can paddle with all your might but, as I slowed down, I could see my raft wasn’t going backwards, wasn’t getting closer to the falls.

Finally I quit padding altogether. Nothing happened. My raft just sat here, a few feet below the falls.  Had my lead line, a rope attached to my raft, snagged on a rock or something? I checked. No, that wasn’t problem: I was caught in a hydraulic.

I sat there a few more seconds trying to figure out what to do. But you can’t just sit there all day. I decided to grab the lead line and roll out the front of the raft. When I hit the water the current carried me away; my raft stayed put. When the rope went taunt I yanked and and my raft came to me.

Then I went back and ran the thing again. My friends did too. Fun ride.

  • Wikipedia says a hydraulic is formed when water pours over the top of a submerged object, or underwater ledges, causing the surface water to flow back upstream toward the object.

Coming Friday: Don’t You Just Hate Being Right Sometimes

The Life-Saving Vision

I came within a nickel of drowning in the Chattooga River.  Maybe I would have if it hadn’t been for my boys.

Bo, L, Mark and Jack Stith
Bo, L, Mark and Jack Stith

The Chattooga, which begins in Western North Carolina, near Cashiers, and runs southwest, between South Carolina and Georgia, is a National Wild and Scenic River. Some say that when the river is up Section Three is the ultimate and ideal challenge for a boater in an undecked canoe.

Back before the book and a movie of the same name, Deliverance, made the Chattooga famous, a bunch of us would to go down there on a Friday evening and camp by the river, at Earl’s Ford. Next morning we’d put our canoes in the water and paddle Section Three.

This trip was in December. The river was high, it had been raining a lot, but I had never overturned on previous trips and I had no intention of going down that day either. Way too cold for that.

The Narrows
The Narrows

But I did go down, in a place called The Narrows. The river, squeezed together, speeded up there. And the haystacks  –standing waves — got bigger. 

Brownsguides.com describes The Narrows this way:  “Canyon walls pinch the water forcing currents to the bottom of the river to reemerge as ‘wave trains’ or a series of fairly uniform standing waves coming one right after another.  The deeper the river the higher the wave trains.”

I don’t know how big they were that day, big enough to pour over the sides of my canoe and drive it under.

I was in trouble the moment I hit the water. It was so cold.  And I hadn’t put my life jacket on properly, hadn’t tightened it around my waist. My life jacket flared out over my head and I went under.

There was no possibility of swimming to the bank — there was no bank — just rock walls on either side. The only way out was down river, through The Narrows.

I was not afraid, that surprised me the most. Not afraid of dying, not afraid of drowning. And I was drowning, all I had to do was relax. And then I had a vision of my three boys.

I grabbed my life jacket, pulled it down between my legs and got my head out of the water. Between haystacks I could breath.

The next we tried to salvage a boat we found pinned against rocks. The Brother Dave, L, me. I don't remember the guy with the paddle.
The next day we tried to salvage this boat which we found pinned against some rocks. That’s Brother Dave, L, and  me. I don’t remember name of the guy with the paddle.

I had to get out of the river while I could still move. It was so, so cold. When the current ran me into a boulder near the end of The Narrows I grabbed my chance. I hauled myself out of the river and crouched there, shivering, waiting for my friends to come for me.

I was saved by a vision of the future I did not want: I did not want another man raising my sons.

Postscript: I stripped off my clothes, trying to get warmer, trying to stop shaking, and paddled the last few miles, to the take out at Highway 76, in my skivvies.

Coming Friday: SOB